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It’s at this stage in the process that salt is added to the mix, that is if the batch is producing salted butter. However, these days, that only tends to happen in some small artisan dairies, instead when it comes to the larger manufacturers – and the question of how is butter made in a factory – there are still a few more steps to go. In the early days of industrialisation, the popcorn butter was washed to make sure all the buttermilk and milk solids were gone. It will be used to make ice-cream and other dairy products. These thick lumps of popcorn butter stay in the churner, while the remaining buttermilk liquid is released, however it’s not discarded. The air is released by hand every few minutes to regulate the pressure inside the churner and after about 40 minutes or so, the fat molecules have formed into small clumps called ‘popcorn butter.’
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This machine spins at about 28 revolutions per minute (roughly the same speed as a tumble-dryer) and this agitation causes the fat molecules in the buttercream to close up, releasing water and air. The day-aged buttermilk is transferred to the churner. The wonderfully named Hippolyte Mège-Mouriès rendered beef fat with milk and invented margarine! In Ireland, a Butter Exchange was opened in Cork to regulate the trade, and in France in the 1860s, demand for butter was so high that Emperor Napoleon III offered a huge reward for anyone that could come up with a substitute.
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For example in Norway in the Middle Ages, it was so essential that the king required a full bucket every year as tax. Without refrigeration, storage became an issue, which is one reason why the warmer Mediterranean countries mainly use oil to cook with, and the cooler northern European countries prefer butter.Īs well as being a very common cooking ingredient, butter is a major global commodity and has been central to many world economies. Bread and butter became a common snack, just as it is today.
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It only became more acceptable for the upper echelons of society in the early years of the sixteenth century, when the Roman Catholic Church – in return for a hefty tax – allowed it to be eaten during Lent. The ancient Romans thought butter was fit only for barbarians, while in ancient Greece, a common put-down for those of a lesser class was ‘boutyrophagoi’, or ‘butter-eaters.’ During the Middle Ages, butter was eaten mostly by peasants. Answering the question ‘how is butter produced’ differs dramatically today when compared to the process used thousands of years ago, but the end result has basically remained unchanged for millennia. You get it out the fridge, spread it on your toast, crumpets or bagels, mix it into delicious cakes or make the best fried eggs, but it hasn’t always been that easy.